The word “vintage” has different meanings and connotations. One person might recall a fine wine they enjoyed and make note of the year it was produced. Another may think about the classic car their grandfather drove. Some remember an antique they found at a garage sale.
In the kimono industry, vintage describes used kimono and yukata robes. There are a growing number of dealers that trade in “vintage” clothing. In many cases, vintage is simply used for marketing purposes. In advertising, “vintage” sounds better than “used.” The same is true of used car dealers referring to their vehicles as pre-owned.
“Pre-owned” clothing fits in people’s lives for many reasons. Some shop used clothing stores looking for a bargain, others seek a unique clothing piece to compliment an outfit. Of course, there are true fans of the “vintage” look that browse resale shops or conduct online searches in hopes of finding that trove of special threads.
Occasionally we receive an inquiry for vintage kimono, but more commonly, someone asking if we buy vintage kimonos. The quick answer is “no, we do not.” Since we already offer nearly 100 different kimono and yukata styles for men, women and kid’s in our online store, www.chopa.com, we are content to focus only on new Japanese robes.
What is the true meaning of a vintage kimono? Does it mean the kimono was made in a “good” year like a fine wine? Does three years old qualify or must it be 20 years old to be labeled vintage? Is it just another word for old? In our mission to learn more about vintage kimono, we discovered the market appears to be very arbitrary and difficult to follow along a hard set of rules.
A used kimono may be discovered at a garage sale, but often there isn’t a reliable story behind it. Sellers can be vague and the most common information we were given was that it was a gift a family member received or someone visited Japan years ago and it was sitting in a closet since.
Just like in most industries there are wholesalers and retailers trading in used kimonos. Wholesale dealers often buy kimono in bulk bundles or even pallet-size loads. Some may be auctioned or sold sight unseen, while others may offer a glimpse into what a buyer might expect to find as far as the average age, style, condition, etc. Sometimes these bundles are sold by the number of pieces and other times sold by the pound.
Dealers will then sort and rank the robes, selecting the best for resale. Robes in average condition may be flipped to another dealer and kimono in poor condition are usually sold for fabric use only. These remnants can be used in art, fashion, design or repurposing pieces and sewn to make a quilt or even a kimono.
Vintage kimono and yukata will often be graded by the seller. Keep in mind, grading is highly subjective and most dealers feel they know more about grading than the next competitor. We have seen grading range from A to AA, Good to Very Good and Normal to Top Grade. If you shop for a robe by grade, research this yourself first. Ask yourself, who is the dealer? How long have they been in business? Where did they learn how to grade? Did they spend years in Japan or work in the industry prior?
Here are two grading descriptions we located on a website.
Condition C – Well-used Japanese kimono. Clear signs of wear and staining. Not suitable for formal occasions, but suitable for sitting around, cosplay, costume or decorative purpose.
Top Grade – Fabric is in great. Pattern and fabrics are both wonderful. Kimono used in our shop standard. Reference price – brand new – over $2500. (sic)
In the examples above, the explanation for Condition C is pretty self-explanatory, like wear it at home when nobody is looking. The Top-Grade description doesn’t really tell us much. While it might be in part to a language barrier, it is vague and doesn’t provide specifics.
Ads for used kimono will often indicate any soiling flaws, like “light staining” or “some spotting.” The first question that may pop into your head is “stains from what?”, while others may not want to know the answer. Don’t hesitate to ask how and when a kimono was cleaned? With infectious diseases and heightened concerns about Covid-19, caution should never be dismissed.
Another question one should ask is how were the robes stored? Were these stored in a climate-controlled environment? Were they stored in an old warehouse with high temperatures and humidity? Are there musty or moldy odors? Consumers with lung issues or concerns should be extra careful.
Each individual can decide if a used or “vintage” kimono is right for them. There are thousands of beautiful and unique, used Japanese kimono and yukata available on the market. Some have a great history and story behind them, but like any form of art, a buyer should research, investigate and question any seller. Good luck and happy shopping.
Shop for New Kimono and Yukata at www.chopa.com. We offer a large selection and fast shipping from the USA.
